Indian Tribal and Ethnic Jewelry
by Prakriti Joshi Freelance JournalistHey all..!
Today i am here with a blog on tribal jewelry ! Eclectic, earthen and
funky are some of the adjectives that can be used to describe tribal jewelry,
while arty, refined and evergreen can be used to describe ethnic jewelry. Even in the olden days, the tribes used every
imaginable form of jewelry be it be the usual necklaces, bangles, and earrings
or exotic items like ear cuffs, lip rings, and toe rings. Since most indigenous tribes were relatively
poor or were frequently plundered by colonial powers, their selection of raw
materials was humble and was limited to shells, claws, jaws of animals, ivory,
wood, etc.
India has been endowed with a rich tribal
culture, which despite modernization has kept its unique traditions and values
intact. Tribal Jewelry still bears a definite earthy charm. On the other hand,
being different from the conventionally manufactured jewelry items, the rarity
of ethnic jewelry is cherished by many.
Characteristics of Tribal Jewelry
Tribal jewelry communicates a lot about the
wearer’s status in the group, his wealth and possessions, spiritual beliefs and
even functional habits. Thus, apart from depicting a customarily idealized
appearance, the ornaments give a brief glimpse into the socio-cultural
traditions of a particular group.
Even in the olden eras, there were ornaments to prettify every significant part of the body. This is evident from the fact that several elaborate handmade ornaments had been excavated from Mohenjo-Daro and other sites of Indus Valley Civilization. Also, Mahabharata and Ramayana are replete with elaborate descriptions of ornaments and the mystical powers they possessed. Further, there are several accounts stating how the royals of ancient India hired ingenious craftsmen to craft exquisite pieces of jewelry. Some of these jewels have trickled down from one generation to another, retained their own identity and have become an eternal part of familial treasures. These pieces have become priceless over time.
Tribal jewelry integrates humble natural
materials like leaves, berries, feathers, leather, claws, flowers, and much
more into majestic pieces of art that are wearable. Demographics of the region,
availability of resources and proposed functionality are some of the factors
that make tribal jewelry of one group differ from the other. Besides, even
extreme poverty and lack of precious metals have not deterred the tribal
crafters from creating glorious ornaments. In fact, it has been observed that
tribes of certain region may be scantily clothed, but they still adorn ample
amount of jewelry on their bodies.
Tribal Jewelry Styles in Different Indian States:
1. Madhya Pradesh- Tribes of Bastar:
The use of grass, natural beads and cane make the
ornaments made by tribes of Bastar stand out amidst the rest. Most of the
residents of Bastar district still prefer to adorn traditional ornaments made
out of copper, glass, silver, wood, peacock feathers and even wild flowers.
It is fairly common to spot indigenous women
wearing necklaces made out of one rupee coins, which is an excellent example of
creativity.
This nomadic group adorns colourful and weighty
ornaments, embossed with coins, shells, beads and metallic mesh which make them
distinguishable at the very first glance. Also, the Banjara tribes adorn ornate
belts around their waists to complement their vibrant attires.
Apart from Banjaran jewelry, Rajasthani
silverware is quite popular all over the world.Rajasthani jewels are often
decorated with colourful beads as well as tinkling silver bells and bear a
distinctive oxidised appearance.
3. Meghalaya-Tribes of Garo, Khasi and Jaintia
hills:
Red coral beads of Jaintia and Khasi as well as
thin glass fluted stems of Garo are quite popular all over the world. These
beads and stems are often strung together to form ornate necklaces, bracelets,
trinkets, earrings, belts and many other jewelry items.
Traditionally, the Bhutia tribes used gold to
craft elaborate jewelry, but now due to the cost-factor they have switched over
to silver, which is comparatively cheaper. The use of turquoise stones, dzee
stones and corals makes this jewelry style utterly unique.
Wacho Tribes: This tribal group incorporates
naturally available resources like seeds, beetles, feathers, bamboo and cane to
decorate their jewels.
Karka Gallong Tribes: The women of this group
adorn immaculately crafted coils of iron rings as earrings to complement their
metal embossed leather belts. Also, their adornments are heavily studded with
beads.
Rengami Nagas: Men belonging to the Rengami Nagas
group wear jewels made from flowers in their ears and the red blossoms are most
popular among them.
Men of this tribalal group adorn green ferns and
foliage in their hair knots. It gives a very natural look and shows one’s
closeness to nature and its surroundings.
7. Himachal Pradesh- Tribes of Chamba, Kangra,
Mandi and Kullu:
Himachali elliptical anklets, iron-headed bangles
and ornate daggers are quite popular all over the world for their uniqueness.
Also, traditional collar-like silver Hansalis, silver chokers called Kachs and
Shellac filled silver bangles are commonly worn by pahari women of Himachal.
Apart from their aesthetics, the Himachalis believe that silver ornaments
protect the adorner from evil spirits.
8. Chattisgarh- Hill Maria Tribes:
Traditionally, the tribal jewellers of
Chhattisgarh used fine drawn copper wires, brass and iron (now, gold and silver
) withnatural seed, bone or wood embellishments to craft one of a kind fillets,
collars, laces, square-bar anklets, trinkets, rings and much more. Conical
twin-top earrings and nose rings of Hill Maria tribes are quite popular.
9. West Bengal- Tribes of Maukhali:
Bengali Tikli (worn on forehead), Kaan
(traditional earrings), chik (gold choker), Hunsuli, Mantasha and Dokra are
known for their exemplary craftsmanship. These ornaments are made using gold,
silver, precious stones as well as wooden beads and are all exquisite in style.
10. Bihar-Santhal Tribes:
Filigree motif earrings, Kardhanis (worn around waist) and Chudha bangles of Santhal are insignias of ethnicity. Also, their vibrantly jingling jhumkis are popular all over the world.
Present Trends in Tribal Jewelry
Tribe inspired jewelry is the hottest trend these
days and can be seen anywhere and everywhere from red carpet to the fashion
streets. Their vivid colours, unconventional geometric designs and
out-of-the-box look are what appeals to the audience at a glance. Also, they
are relatively easier on the pocket and are a big hit among the young
fashionistas.
The best tip to embellish your modern look with
some bold tribe inspired ornaments is to pair them up with a simple kurta or
even t-shirt and allow the ornaments to steal the show.
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Created on Jul 7th 2018 06:14. Viewed 760 times.