Why Kering Is Interest in Alexander McQueen?
by Min Leung Saller
"I immerse myself in the different elements of the city of London. In the studio, I can document the change from dawn to dusk.I admire the courage of women around the world to chase storms. They are all around the world, but they are bound together as a strong community by a common passion. They face the unknown and embrace nature."That's how Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen described her spring/summer 2022 womenwear collection as "a view from the sky in London".
Following the end of the four fashion weeks, Alexander McQueen unveiled the collection at 8pm Beijing time in London on Oct 12, marking the label's first offline show in two years after the COVID-19 pandemic.
What kind of surprise did McQueen bring back to the show?
Alexander McQueen 2022 Spring/summer collection big show
The show moved back to London and took place on the roof of Tobacco Docks Yellow Park in Wapping Lane, east London.
The transparent cloud-like installation on the roof was conceived and designed by architect Smiljan Radic. From a distance, it looks like a cloud floating in mid-air.Up close, it looks like a rising hot air balloon dotted the London sky.
From the top of Tobacco Docks Yellow Park, you can see all the sights and weather in London. The transparent cloud installation was inspired by the spectacular and changing London sky that creative director Sarah Burton and the team at McQueen see in their studio every day.
"Sun, rain, storm, whatever happens, you have to keep going.We should face the unknown, embrace nature, see and feel when it is at its most turbulent!"
This season Alexander McQueen takes "London Sky Scene" as the theme. The printing elements of this series are inspired by the unpredictable sky picture of London, from dawn to dusk, from blue sky to rolling clouds, recording the change of weather, capturing the form and color changes of clouds, expressing the awe of nature.
In terms of design, Sarah Burton continued the classic elements of Alexander McQueen's tradition, creating perfect female curves with the sense of silhouette. The combination of lace and leather elements brings a sense of conflict, giving women a soft and beautiful armor.
Embroider has crystal set the raindrop design that acts the role of to be used in great quantities in this season garment, no matter be tie-in hazy gauze skirt or stiff suit outline presents the delicate feeling that gives more beautiful round beautiful huan.
From clear white to clear blue to hazy yellow, London's unpredictable weather has a romance all its own.
Gradient blue crystal Outlines the sky pattern of continuous rain and storm, a sense of dreaminess and power.
"I admire the boldness of the women of McQueen in chasing the storm. They are everywhere in the world, and fashion is inspired by them, for them, a strong community bound together by a common passion.
Attention to the storm is not only about appreciating the beauty, but also about lingering mystery and joy, embracing the uncertainty of the world.Let go of obsession, face the unknown, embrace nature, see and feel when it's at its most turbulent.To a larger and stronger world."
- Sarah Burton,
Black and white gray blue formed the colour of the storm, gauze pledges, cowboy, cortex, all sorts of material collision gives disorderly in order crazy, the wonderful picture scroll of a firm and soft and aid spreads out slowly.
Legendary supermodel Naomi Campbell makes her grand finale.Single-breasted short-cut coats are embroidered with raindrops in crystal inlay, while cut-out strapless bodice dresses made of black silk, mesh and Paris mesh outline stormy skies in chiffon chiffon.
This is Naomi Campbell's third closed show recently, following Versace×Fendi and Lanvin's Spring/Summer 2022 collection, bringing a perfect finale to Alexander McQueen's Spring/summer 2022 women's wear collection.
In this season, Sarah Burton uses strong contrast to create a femininity that transcends conventional boundaries.The whole series is to McQueen's female fortitude, enthusiasm, courage to chase the storm praise, after the big show has been widely praised by the media and fashion industry.
Sarah Burton's post-mcqueen era
For many designer houses, the loss of a founder would have been the end of the brand, but Alexander McQueen has achieved a rare success, largely thanks to Sarah Burton, the current creative director and McQueen's former right-hand man.
Alexander McQueen conquered the aesthetic from the 1990s to the 2010s with his violent aesthetics, and Sarah Burton's succession allowed the brand to continue the founder's spirit to the greatest extent.
Sarah Burton began her fashion career in the '90s as an intern at Alexander McQueen, where she honed her talents while slowly building the inspiration for her reign.
As a favorite protege of McQueen, Sarah has personally participated in the birth of all the classics with McQueen for 14 years, and her understanding of the brand is deeply rooted.In 2000, at the age of 20, Sarah Burton was promoted to designer shoes director.
In the post-mcqueen era pioneered by Sarah Burton, romance is becoming more romantic and more delicate, gender boundaries are being erased, and the voice of equality is stirring in the fabric.She took the darkness out of McQueen's genius and added a gentleness that made the clothes more approachable.
She understands that people want to be able to express themselves through clothes, and that clothes provide emotional value more than they can be worn.At the same time, it expresses emotions and values in a more firm and peaceful way, and adds a female perspective to the thinking.
The fall/winter 2021 collection, featuring water and the fleeting ANEMONES, conveys the healing power of nature and understates Alexander McQueen women's sneakers.
Men's wear is also wonderful. Alexander McQueen 2022 Spring/summer men's wear series draws inspiration from the poems and paintings of the romantic poet and artist William Blake, breaks the traditional cognition, and gives full play to the trend of sexism, radiating a beautiful romantic atmosphere.
Kering to create the next star brand?
In addition to preserving the brand style and spirit of Alexander McQueen in the design, Sarah Burton also made many attempts to expand the brand's market awareness.
In 2016, the brand launched a retail upgrade, and the popular "little White shoes" became another popular item after the skull scarf, which was voted the most popular sneakers by fashion search platform Lyst, resulting in a 41% year-on-year increase in regular search volume of the brand.
Back in 2019, RBC luxury analyst Rogerio Fujimori predicted in a research note that Alexander McQueen's sales were expected to double into the 500 million euro club by 2020.And with last year's performance, Alexander McQueen may well have achieved that goal.Although specific sales figures for the brand were not disclosed, they satisfied the group according to Kering's "very strong" description.
Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering Group, also made it clear earlier that Alexander McQueen would be the "star brand" kering would focus on after Balenciaga.
It has been reported that In 2014, Chinese consumers have become the world's largest consumer group, accounting for 32 percent of sales, followed by American consumers, who accounted for 23 percent.However, in the regional market, consumption in Asia contributed only 22% of Alexander McQueen's total sales in 2015.
In order to continue to expand the brand awareness, Alexander McQueen will not miss the huge Asian market.
Alexander McQueen has officially announced young Chinese actor Liu Haoran as its spokesperson for the brand in China, just two days before its spring/summer 2022 women's fashion show.Riding on Liu haoran's popularity, Alexander McQueen has gained a lot of exposure on Chinese social media.
Similarly, as Alexander McQueen's South Korean brand ambassador, actress Jeon Ji-hyun, with her neat and capable image, conveys McQueen's feminine power, which strengthens the impression of Alexander McQueen in the eyes of Asian consumers.
Created on Oct 19th 2021 10:53. Viewed 142 times.