What will Gucci change after replacing the designer

by Min Leung Saller

Kaiyun Group officially announced that Valentino womenswear designer Sabato De Sarno will serve as the new creative director of its luxury brand Gucci.

At the same time, Gucci just released the 2023 autumn and winter men's wear show jointly created by the GUCCI design team. People believe that Gucci will usher in a "new beginning."

There is no doubt that the creative director is the design master of the brand, and the design style of a brand is completely controlled by the creative director. However, every time the creative director is replaced, the brand style will always change more or less. Gucci, which is looking for big changes, has obviously shown a different look.

Half a month ago, Milan Men's Wear Week opened, and Gucci's 2023 autumn and winter men's wear series release show was staged. This is the first release show after the departure of the brand's former creative director Alessandro Michele. Before the appointment of the new creative director, although it is still done by the brand's design team, the style has been greatly adjusted.

As the first season after the resignation of former creative director Alessandro Michele, this menswear series presents a more simple new style with the theme of "improvisation".

The opening model wore wide-leg trousers, close-fitting off-white short sleeves and a dark blue hat, and walked out of the backstage slowly with a huge Jackie handbag on her shoulder. It was like a teenager who got up early, rummaged through the closet for the most convenient but not overly casual attire, and then hurried out. This kind of relaxed laziness breaks people's inherent concept of a gentleman's refined and restrained image.

This "improvisation" comes from the transformation of existing items and clothing silhouettes. A detachable button element is added to the traditional double-breasted plaid suit, allowing the wearer to freely interpret his own suit image.

The silk scarf with horsebit pattern is no longer just a decoration for bags and upper body, it has also become a luxurious patch on jeans in the show. Cropped coats that appear to be made of fur or feathers are embroidered with multi-dimensional white sequins, a visual deception of couture craftsmanship.

The sportswear under the aerobics boom in the 1980s appeared in the form of knitted fabrics. It is no longer just for hot dances, but also provides warmth for young people at home.

Inspired by the motorcycle suit, the off-white leather jacket presents the traditional masculine clothing elements in a soft and lazy way, dispelling the original tough atmosphere.

Probably the most interesting makeovers were the long dresses that appeared on the runway. At first glance, the male models in loose suits should be paired with equally loose trousers, but when the models walk, the looming legs make the audience realize that this is just a long skirt that looks like suit trousers.

The traditional image of a gentleman was once again dispelled by impromptu variations. This specious presentation adds a lot of ambiguity and unconventional sex appeal to masculinity.

In terms of accessories, this series also reinterprets the brand's classic items. Like the classic Jackie, which was amplified on the menswear runway and used a softer silhouette with a Tom Ford-designed push-lock closure for the brand to create a more urban, everyday version.

The Crystal GG series of Gucci handbags reinterpret the brand's classic pattern in the 1970s in the form of lacquer, injecting a more publicized and self-emphasizing attitude into the classic archives. While retaining the iconic tiger head buckle, the Dionysus bag modifies the original stiff silhouette and makes a new interpretation with soft leather and warm lambswool.

And what Gucci 2023 autumn and winter men's wear series wants to convey is that masculinity should no longer be constrained by a certain form and framework, but should express itself with a free attitude.

A man who likes motorcycle culture may also be willing to dress himself softly, lazy and non-aggressive; a man who is obsessed with the aerobics culture of the 1980s and admires straightforward sexiness may wish to have a warm sweater for himself; An office worker who wears a suit all day will also want to add some changeable twists to his "uniform".

These things seem irrelevant, but they are actually a display of self-expression, and the simple and practical design tone laid by this series also indicates that the magnificence belonging to Alessandro Michele is likely to be gone forever. return.

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Created on May 27th 2023 02:59. Viewed 97 times.

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