There is in the soil of the 15,000 acres of vineyards of the Jerez
country, lime, clay and sand, but in widely varying proportions, mixed
quite differently, and 'peppered' in an erratic manner with small
quantities of various minerals, the importance of which, as regards the
quality of the grapes and of the wine made from them, is considerable.
The best Sherries all come from vineyards rich in lime: they are called
Albarizas, from albo, white, their soil being chalk white. They are the
vineyards upon which the ancient fame of Sherry was built and still
stands. Carrascal, Macharnudo, Balbaina and Anina, within a few miles to
the north-west and west of Jerez, are the largest and among the best of
the Albariza vineyard districts; they are divided among a large number
of owners. Nearly two-thirds of all the Sherry-producing vineyards are
Albarizas.
The vineyards known as Barros (some 21 per cent. of total), are mostly
to the south-east of Jerez; their soil contains a higher proportion of
clay: it is richer and darker. Others, called Arenas (17 per cent.), are
scattered here and there in what might be called sand pockets; they
produce more 'grapes to the acre, but grapes fit only for making the
lighter types of Sherry.
THE GRAPES
Of the limited number of white grape varieties that flourish in the
lime, clay and sandy soils of Jerez vineyards, one is outstanding, the
white Palomino, also known as Listan amongst other names. It is grown in
all Albariza vineyards, as well as in some others, and it bears large
bunches of medium-sized, very sweet, golden grapes.
The Canocazo or Mollar blanco is also a very sweet grape that is
cultivated in Albariza vineyards, but it is too shy a bearer to be
popular. The Pedro Ximenez, the sweetest grape of all, is grown to a
limited extent only, and in the folds of some Albariza vineyards which
hold a little more moisture.
Albillo grapes are mostly grown in Barros vineyards, whilst the Perruno,
Mantuos, Beba and the larger type of white Moscatel (gordo) are
varieties cultivated chiefly in Arenas vineyards: they yield a greater
abundance of grapes, quite sweet to the taste because of their lack of
acidity, but most of them are actually not so rich in grape-sugar. Thus,
whilst the alcoholic strength of a wine made from some of these grapes
averages 11 per cent., that which is made from Palomino grapes reaches
12.5 to 14 per cent., and from Pedro Ximenez grapes 15 per cent. of
alcohol.
THE VINTAGE
September is the Vintage month when Palomino, Pedro Ximenez and all the
finer species of grapes are ripe and must be gathered, whilst coarser
grapes are usually picked in October. The pickers do not cut off all
bunches indiscriminately, but the fully ripe ones only, going up and
down the same rows of vines several times; there is little or no rest
for the vintage workers between sunrise and sunset, but there is no sign
of any feverish hurry among them, nor of un-Spanish haste.
The freshly picked grapes are conveyed in baskets or hampers to large
holders set on the back of a patient mule, and when these holders are
full, the grapes are delivered to the nearest farm, where they arrive
fresh and dusty: the contents of each holder is then spread upon round
esparto grass rush mats, and they are left there for twenty-four hours
in the open before being brought to the lagar within, and pressed. The
Pedro Ximenez grapes, for making sweet wine, are left under the
scorching September sun for a fortnight; they are covered at night with
esparto grass matting to avoid any condensation of the morning dew upon
them.