The History Of Pashmina From Kashmir To Europe

Pashmina or Cashmere Pashmina is one of the most excellent and renowned fabrics found globally as one of the luxury products. It was once famous, particularly among the royalty and wealthy sections of society. For decades, the mastery of knitting a Pashmina by hand has been inherited in Kashmir, India. Pashmina fabric, especially for shawls, has a classic beauty and this conventional handmade craft needs the finest craftsmanship. 

 

The Persian word ‘Pashm,’ which means wool, is the original word for Pashmina. Pashmina is made from goat wool and is considered one of the softest animal fibers used in the textile industry. 

Pashmina shawls gained their popularity only in the 15th century after the foundation of the weaving industry in Kashmir after Kashmiri Emperor Zain-ul-Abidin ascended the throne. He motivated the weavers to utilize new weaving methods. During this time, beautiful flower-patterned and geometrical designs started emerging on the plain shawls. Also, you may look into Angela Jey for the trendiest collection. 

By the mid 16th century, the Pashmina shawls industry in Kashmir started flourishing in India after the advent of the Mughal Empire. King Babur gave his governors and officers Khilat or the robes of honor, woven with expensive fabrics to appreciate their great service. The Khilat generally included a turban, shirt, coat, shawls, and scarves made of Pashmina with gold embroidery. And gradually, it evolved into a vogue among the aristocrats of India to acquire a fine pashmina shawl, as it became a symbol of prestige and importance. Due to the patronage provided by kings, the Pashmina shawl weaving attained its artistic excellence. Detailed needlework began emerging on the plain Pashmina shawls. The slow and arduous procedure of weaving and embellishing a pashmina shawl to the quintessence stage took months and even years. 

By the end of the 18th century, the Pashmina shawls had entirely taken over the European markets and the French style industry. It started when one of the governors of Kashmir greeted a noble in Iran with an orange-colored Pashmina shawl. After that, that shawl exchanges many hands before reaching the French Emperor Napolean Bonaparte during its Egyptian campaign. Napoleon then gifted it to his beloved Joséphine, who was impressed by the delicate warm fiber of the shawl. It is often told that Joséphine possessed around 300 - 400 Pashmina shawls; and used up over 20,000 gold francs on them.  

The Pashmina shawl first came out in a French fashion magazine in 1790 and immediately earned significance in Paris. However, even though these shawls are used exclusively by women, it was initially famous as a cashmere shawl for men in India.

As the Pashmina shawls gained popularity in Europe, the imitations and cheap replicas also grew in India. So the British tried to formulate the raw material of pashmina. They formulated many ways, including transferring the Changthangi goats to England and using substitute raw materials. Still, they failed to obtain the same fineness as a Cashmere Pashmina shawl. 

Thus a handwoven Pashmina is the embodiment of artistic excellence. However, it has a simple outset in the nomadic ridges of Changthang; it has earned its popularity through the narrow streets of Indian markets to the luxury stores around the world with its beauty and quality. 

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