Salt of The Earth

Odisha, with its vast rural swathes, offers a plethora of village destinations that’s are a joy to experience for urban travellers.

It’s a state bestowed with nature’s bounty, with simple and friendly people whose unhurried and laidback pace of life most city dwellers will envy. The society is traditional, marked by strong religious and cultural links that find expression in the numerous festivals celebrated throughout the year. Most parts of Odisha can be characterised as rural, barring a few urban pockets. Visitors wanting to experience rural life need not go far. In fact, many destinations are located in the countryside and can be explored from the comfort of a guest house or hotel.

However, for those seeking a truly rural experience, some destinations have been developed by the government and some NGOs. They serve the dual purpose of providing tourists an offbeat experience and extending sustainable livelihood opportunities for the community. Accommodation is basic, food is generally the traditional fare of the region, and some spots in forested areas may not have cellular connectivity. Filtered drinking water is available in most places, but carry bottled drinking water from the nearest town if you like. Some destinations may seem almost primitive, and are for those willing to endure extremely rustic conditions—but the experience is highly rewarding.

Mangalajodi Bird Heaven

 Does the idea of quietude by a calm lake appeal to you? A little over an hour’s drive from Bhubaneswar on NH5 towards Berhampur takes you to Chandpur. Look out for the Mangalajodi signpost, take the country road and you will find yourself in a typical Odishan village close to Chilika lake. The Mangalajodi ceo- camp is located in the heart of the village. The quaint cottages, built keeping in mind the rural landscape, may seem slightly disconcerting to urban folk. But the sparsely-furnished mud cottages have attached washrooms and are comfortable but not posh.

Chilika lake is an ornithologist’s delight and Mangalajodi’s fame stems from the fact that what was once a village of poachers has now become a village of conservationists. Today, many of the village youths are engaged in this rural tourism initiative of the Indian Grameen Services, and the ceo-camp is very popular among birders. Your main activity will include boat rides on the lake and bird sightings, with the friendly boatman doubling as a guide. You can also dabble in vegetable gardening, take long walks, watch village life or just soak in the tranquillity of the lake. Or, step into the souvenir shop and take your pick from prints, caps, T-shirts, books and other knickknacks. In the winter, sit around a bonfire and enjoy tales about the lake. Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food is available, and fish-lovers can look forward to delicious preparations from the fresh catch of the day.

Mangalajodi is about 75 km from Bhubaneswar.

Taptapani Natural Spa

Want to indulge in the soothing and relaxing experience of a natural spa amidst sylvan surroundings? Then head to Taptapani, near Berhampur. The curative properties of natural hot springs (often laced with sulphur) have been acknowledged by medical practitioners, and this spring draws people from all over, especially those with joint and muscle pains or skin problems. The minerals in the water have antiseptic and therapeutic properties. Tribal communities living in the vicinity of Taptapani not only swear by its curative powers but hold the spring very sacred and have made it a place of worship. That’s the reason for all the floral tributes in the main well from which the springs emanate. A small Shiva temple also draws devotees.

Water from the hot springs is channelled into large bathing tanks with a separate enclosure for women. Those seeking privacy can use the baths of the guest house. Initially, you might be repelled by the acrid smell of sulphur but you will get used to it as you relax in the water.

Taptapani’s main residents comp rise a few tribal families scattered around the hills and valleys. A cluster of shops (read shacks) selling basic provisions such as biscuits and sundry items is referred to as the ‘market’ and bus stand. The government-run guest house (Panthanivas) is the only place to stay. It has spacious rooms and wide verandahs. Or you can stay in the tree-house.
Visit the deer park close by, trek to the forests and villages (always take a guide), or make a day trip to Chandragiri, a delightful Tibetan settlement with a beautiful monastery, about 35 km away.

Taptapani is about 50 km from Berhampur, which is on the East Coast railway. The nearest airport is at Bhubaneswar, which is 180 km from Berhampur and 230 km from Taptapani. 

Daringbadi ‘Oqded Heaven

 This charming town in Kandhmal district is known as the ‘Kashmir of Odisha,’ because it gets some frost in the winter (called ‘snow’ by the locals). At an elevation of some 3,000 ft, Daringbadi is an ideal summer resort though the ‘snow’ attracts winter visitors as well. Lush sal and pine forests, mystic valleys, and coffee and turmeric plantations offer various shades of soothing greenery.
About two kilometres away is the ceo- camp, maintained by a charitable trust named DEERS (Development of Ecotourism and Environmental Research Society). It has six cottages, furnished with electricity and a television. The camp is secluded with tall sal trees and offers complete solitude, though there is a small hamlet close by.

There is a sizeable tribal population in the district and you can observe their art and crafts or trek to Belaghar and get a first-hand experience of tribal life. See the rural artisans creating terracotta objects or useful artefacts with bamboo and cane. Organic vegetable gardening is being promoted as an agro-tourism initiative, and you can enjoy homely meals from fresh produce.
Daringbadi is 251 km from Bhubaneswar. The nearest railhead is Berhampur, 125 km away.

Raghurajpur Rustic Retreat

The charming village of Raghurajpur is like a little gem hidden among lush coconut groves and betel farms that are synonymous with villages in coastal Odisha. Branching off the state highway that connects Bhubaneswar with Pun, a meandering road leads you to this bustling village, on the banks of the Bhargavi river. Although better known as a crafts village with a heritage tag, Raghurajpur is not only a cultural hub of Odisha, but offers a great opportunity to closely experience rural life. Take an early morning walk along the riverbank and watch the village folk go about their daily activities—eowherds leading cattle out to graze, children splashing in the river, fishermen casting their nets and farmers setting out on bullock carts. Watch an expert coconut climber shimmy up the tall palms and harvest the coconuts, and then enjoy refreshing tender coconut water straight off the tree.

Or, how about the chance to spend an afternoon on a betel farm? Like small greenhouses, the vines are housed in bamboo enclosures and tended to with a lot of care. The dark green paan leaves are carefully plucked and neatly stacked in bamboo baskets to be despatched to different parts of the country. The nuts are gathered too, of course.

As evening falls, temple bells chime and people gather for the evening aarti. Housewives go about their evening chores and men often sit down for a session of devotional songs. Soon, the sounds of chanting with cymbals and other instruments takes over, and the setting changes to one of faith and fervour.
Since Raghurajpur is close to Pun, visitors prefer staying at Pun and making day trips. However, on request, some NGOs operating in Raghurajpur make modest home stay arrangements. The tourism department also runs a two-roomed rest- house (gram kutir) with kitchen facilities under the Explore Rural India initiative.

Chandaka : Phant Country

An elephant straying into the suburbs of Bhubaneswar is quite a common occurrence—and all because the Chandaka elephant sanctuary is on the fringes of the city. It is the nearest getaway from Odisha’s capital, just 20 km, for day-trippers. However, the accommodation options also make it an excellent overnight destination. The forest rest houses are managed as ceo- tourism initiatives by the local villages, in collaboration with the forest department. Designated an elephant reserve, Chandaka is spread over flatlands and small hills with semi-evergreen forests. While sal, bamboo, teak, karanja and so on provide a green cover, several large and small water bodies are habitats for many species of resident and migratory birds.

Your day in Chandaka can include walking the nature trail, bird watching, enjoying the view of the forest from the watch towers and, if you are lucky, sighting animals at watering holes. The tourist complex is slightly crowded, mostly frequented by day-visitors, but offers several recreational facilities such as a park, elephant rides, an interpretation centre, and refreshments and souvenir shops. The tribal families in the vicinity practise marginal agriculture and are dependent on the forest for their livelihood. Many of them offer guide services and are good at tracking animals. 

For booking check the India Holiday Mall website:

Budget Tour India, Golden Triangle Tour India and Tour Operator India

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