A Primer on Fancy Brilliant Diamond Shapes

by Angelina Gertz Certified Diamonds

The round brilliant diamond follows strict guidelines to draw out its best qualities. Other diamonds fall under different categories, such as fancy brilliants. Also known as modified brilliants, they combine diamond’s optical properties with whimsical shapes. These jewels often appear on diamond rings as central and side stones.

Pear shaped loose diamonds feature a rounded end and a pointed one. As a central jewel, they’re often mounted so the tip faces the fingernail. Pear side stones usually point away from each other, tapering down the band. These jewels should have gently curved edges leading to a defined point. The sides of its rounded end should have more defined curves.

Oval diamonds resemble elongated round brilliants. Their shape makes them appear larger than their carat. A budget minded person who enjoys the look of a round brilliant may want to consider this similar stone. Ideal versions are symmetrical with a balance of light and shadow.

Marquise diamonds are slim jewels with curved sides and pointed ends. They were developed in the 18th century at French king Louis XV’s request. As a central jewel in diamond engagement rings, they appear to lengthen the hand. Marquise side stones are attractive set parallel to either the finger or the band. Well-made marquises have sharp points aligned with one another.

Triangular diamonds may be of any cut style, though brilliants are common. Rough diamonds that are twinned or otherwise tricky to cut are often triangular. Cut diamonds that match this shape make the most of their carat weight. Most triangular brilliants are used as side stones. The avant-garde may want them as featured jewels in their diamond bands.

Heart shaped loose diamonds are popular for their romantic imagery. Along with engagements and weddings, they’re used as Valentine’s Day gifts. Their cut is complex, requiring a defined point, a mix of subtle and pronounced curves, and symmetry. Heart engagement rings may have their shape highlighted with one or more borders.