Sue and Shawn Kelly   List Building Experts
Knitting Pattern: Godsend gauntlets


Whether you love every second of Heroes or feel like it never recovered from its sophomore slump, you can't deny that the godsend symbol is an awesome design element. Now you can add that ubiquitous little S-curve to your wardrobe with this simple fingerless glove pattern. The cable is easily adapted to any pattern worked in the round, so feel free to go nuts on socks, sleeves, and any other garment you think could use a little mystery.



Yarn used: KnitPicks Swish DK (100% superwash merino wool, 123 yds/50 grams), two skeins in "Beach Glass." Obviously any similar yarn will do.
Needles: US #5 (3.75 mm); one set of five DPNs, two circulars, or one circular suited for magic loop
Gauge: 26 st/32 rows in reverse stockinette in the round (p every row) = 4in

PLEASE NOTE: While I am a long-time knitter, I am a first-time designer. I will do my best to be thorough and explain my idiosyncratic writing style, but if I've made any mistakes or left anything unclear, please let me know and I will try to fix it.

PATTERN-SPECIFIC NOTES
Charts are beyond me at this point. If anyone wants to make one that would be awesome and I'd be happy to link it here, but for now all I have is written instructions. And I'll be the first to admit they're unconventional, but there is a logic to them! Cables are written to indicate the end result, not the process. C indicates a cable, the first number is the number of stitches in the cable, l or r indicates left or right, op means "over purl" -- i.e., the stitch(es) the cable is crossing will always be purled -- and the last number is the number of stitches that the cable will travel. Thus, the first cable notation in the left glove -- c2rop2 -- means that two knitted stitches will cross to the right over two purled stitches.

This pattern also makes use of horizontal cables, which I did based on Dragoncrafter's instructions. "hc" indicates a horizontal cable. Each horizontal cable is preceded by an increase and followed by a decrease. The increase takes the place of the kfb or m1 that starts the cable in Dragoncrafter's instructions, and the decrease takes the place of the p2tog or ssk referenced at the end of the cable. I recommend doing the decreases as I have written them for the sake of this pattern, as they create different effects depending on where the cable falls in relation to the central curve. The number after the hc indicates how many stitches you will do in the pattern described between the double asterisks.

Confused yet? I promise it makes more sense when you have the yarn in front of you.

AND NOW FOR THE ACTUAL PATTERN

CO 56 st, join in the round
Work in k2p2 ribbing for 8 rounds (1 inch)
Next 4 rounds: k4, p18, k4, cont. in ribbing to end

If on DPNs, rearrange stitches as follows:
pm to indicate beginning of round, sl first 4 sts of round to Needle 4
18 sts on Needle 1 (design panel)
12 sts on Needle 2
14 sts on Needle 3
12 sts on Needle 4 (including first cable)

If using two circular needles or magic loop:
26 stitches on Needle 1
30 stitches on Needle 2

ALL ROUNDS UNTIL THUMB SHAPING:
Work the 18-stitch design panel according to the written cable pattern. The two four-stitch knitted sections on either side of the purls will be four-stitch cables, with a cross every sixth row and the twists pointing inward (the cable on the right side of the panel will lean left, the cable on the left side will lean right). These are not written in the pattern; you will have to keep track of them yourself.
Continue all other stitches in 2x2 ribbing as established.

LEFT GLOVE
p13, c2rop2, p1
p11, c2rop2, p3
p9, c2rop2, p5
p8, c2rop1, p7
p7, c2rop1, p8
p6, c2rop1, p9
p5, c2rop1, p10
p4, c2rop1, p11
p3, c2rop1, p12
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, m1, hc5, k2togtbl, p7
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, c2lop1, p12
p4, c2lop1, m1, hc6, k2togtbl, p3
p5, c2lop1, p10
p6, c2lop2, p8
p8, c2lop2, p6
p10, c2lop1, p5
p11, c2lop1, p4
p12, c2lop1, p3
p13, k2, p3, work to two sitiches before end of row, begin thumb shaping*
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p7, pfb, hc6, k2tog, k1, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p12, c2rop1, p3
p11, c2rop1, p4
p10, c2rop1, p5
p9, c2rop1, p6
p8, c2rop1, p7
p7, c2rop1, p8
p5, c2rop2, p9
p3, c2rop2, p11

RIGHT GLOVE
p1, c2lop2, p13
p3, c2lop2, p11
p5, c2lop2, p9
p7, c2lop1, p8
p8, c2lop1, p7
p9, c2lop1, p6
p10, c2lop1, p5
p11, c2lop1, p4
p12, c2lop1, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p7, pfb, hc5, k2tog, k1, p3
p13, k2, p3
p13, k2, p3
p12, c2rop1, p3
p3, pfb, hc6, k2togtbl, c2rop1, p4
p10, c2rop1, p5
p8, c2rop2, p6
p6, c2rop2, p8
p5, c2rop1, p10
p4, c2rop1, p11
p3, c2rop1, p12
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13, begin thumb shaping*
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, m1, hc6, k2togtbl, p6
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, k2, p13
p3, c2lop1, p12
p4, c2lop1, p11
p5, c2lop1, p10
p6, c2lop1, p9
p7, c2lop1, p8
p8, c2lop1, p7
p9, c2lop2, p5
p11, c2lop2. p3


*THUMB SHAPING

LEFT GLOVE: Two stitches before end of ribbing, pm, pfb, pfb.
Next rnd (WHILE CONTINUING RIBBING, 4-STITCH CABLE, & DESIGN PANEL): p all sts between marker and end-of-row marker, work remaining sts in pattern
Next rnd: Work to marker, pfb, work to 1 st before end-of-row marker, pfb, work remaining sts in pattern
Repeat these two rounds until there are 18 sts between markers
On next round, work to first marker, remove marker, p1, sl 16 sts to waste yarn, p1, work remaining sts in pattern.

RIGHT GLOVE: As for left, but begin immediately after the second four-stitch cable. You will place a second marker after the second pfb in the first row in place of the end-of-row marker; this can be removed when thumb shaping is completed.

BOTH GLOVES
Next 4 rounds: k4, p18, k4 (maintaining 4-stitch cable continuity), cont. in ribbing to end
Work all sts in k2p2 ribbing for 8 rounds
BO loosely, complete thumb

THUMB (BOTH GLOVES)
PU 16 sts from waste yarn, join in the round
p 4 rnds even
Work 4 rnds in k2p2 ribbing
BO loosely
Feb 4th 2012 22:26