Made to Measure V/S Bespoke

by Cindy Guerra 10+ Years Experienced Blogger

Bespoke is a popular term in the fashion industry, and it is losing its meaning to the made to measure suits (MTM). It is a rival of the over-baked term haute couture. The bespoke term is often used incorrectly which is very frustrating, but it isn’t in the case of MTM. Let us get familiar with the terminology and understand the major differences between MTM and Bespoke.

1. Pattern Making

MTM: If a 40 size jacket is to be made, A MTM takes a pattern of 40 sizes and makes the necessary modifications in the measurements which they observe to be outside of the 40 size pattern. These modifications might include jacket length, shoulder width, shoulder padding, arm hole size etc.
Bespoke: A brand new pattern is created each time for an individual. The base patterns are not used in case of bespoke.

2. Multiple Fittings

MTM: An initial fitting is taken by the tailor so as to draft a design, then a final fitting after it is fully created. The alterations are done to the final product after knowing the preferences of the customer
Bespoke: It requires multiple fittings to achieve a final bespoke garment. This is the reason why bespoke has an extra benefit over MTM. The initial fitting is the skeleton baste fitting second one is the forward fitting, third is the fin bar fin fitting. These fittings are done at different stages of tailoring. Bespoke is usually preferred for groom clothing.

3. Available Designs / Customizations

MTM: A variety of options are available in case of MTM such as number of buttons on the jacket, vent options, pocket style, cuffs, pant pleats. However, the options such as lapel width, interior lining, gorge height, button-stance are available sometimes. Anything unique or rare is not actually available.
Bespoke: Regardless of its complexity, there is no limit on the number of options available in bespoke.

4. Meeting 1 on 1 with the Tailor

MTM: You get to meet the sales associate or a store worker who is trained to take measurements and he further provides those measurements to the master tailor or lead cutter. In case of custom suits Mumbai, some shopkeepers hire a sales associate who possesses at-least some experience in the field of taking body measurements.
Bespoke: You get to meet directly with the person who will be constructing your garment.