Hand Embroidered Kurtas: The Art of Weaving

The diversity of India reflects in its myriad of cultures, communities, and customs. Nearly every state in the country has some creative arts and crafts, which have been precious treasures that belong to its deep-rooted heritage. This bounty of cultures has gifted us some of the best arts in the form of handcrafted ethnic wear. Indian embroidery is one such craft, which is distinct due to its versatility.

Despite the wave of westernization, India is looking back to its traditions, not just for gloating over the past glories, but also for restoring it. As a result, the age-old classy outfits are getting a modern makeover, and an increasing number of women today are taking up the ethnic wear to feel for style, comfort, and confidence. The beauty of traditional Indian outfits, especially top wear for women, is that they fit into any persona.

The history and culture in India have been the results of various invasions, settlements, and dynasties that have imbibed their influence. This is why embroidery from different regions of this country has a unique flavour of its own. This uniqueness is so evident that we can figure out the name of the state just by looking at an embroidery work. 

Whether it is the solid handcraft of Gujarat or the intricate yet subtle weaves of Uttar Pradesh’s Chikankari, each embroidery has created its niche for its unique stitches, use of fabrics and colours. Rooted in the soil of India, rural artisans create delicate embroideries that make the world admire them. India has hundreds of embroidery styles, and we have picked some that have inspired designers for decades.

Chikankari: Chikankari is a delicate embroidery style that became popular under the patronage of Nur Jehan, the wife of Emperor Jahangir. Even though the art flourished during the Mughal regime, historians found references to Chikankari as early as the 3rd century BC when Megasthenes mentioned how Indians used flowered muslins. Even in this modern era, Chikankari embroidered outfits are among the top designer wear for women.

Phulkari: Phulkari has been a famous art form of Punjab. As the name suggests, the term “Phulkari” refers to flowers that artisans transform into breathtaking embroidery work of floral motifs on fabrics.

Kantha: It is another age-old embroidery style that has been popular in Bengal and Odisha, Kantha work is simple and elegant. Traditionally, rural women in these states have practiced Kantha craft mainly on sarees and soft dhotis that have a running stitch along the edges.

Mirror work: Mirror work or “shisha” is a popular craft that is said to have originated from Rajasthan and Gujarat. This art form primarily flourished during the Mughal ruling in the 17th century. Mirror work falls under three categories -- hand-blown mirror, machine cut mirror, and mirror embroidery. This craft is distinct due to its use of mirrors and colourful threads.

In the case of embroidery work, the artisans use threads for creating complex weaving. The most striking aspect of this craft is about making elaborate and intricate designs in a wide range of patterns, such as paisley, floral, abstract, and others. Embroidered patterns look majestic on fabrics, including georgette, silk, cotton, pashmina, and other knit fabrics. Overall, embroidered kurtas add grace and elegance and accentuate the beauty of an outfit.

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