Stunning orrisa handloom silk sarees

by parineeti lal content writer

Orissa handloom silks are traditional handloom fabrics made from pure silk and Tussar silk which combine ikat and supplementary thread work. Initially worn only during rites and religious functions, these fine silks are used for a variety of occasions. The exclusive Bomkai Saris employ the ikat style of tie-dye, where the threads are dyed with contrasting colours before they are woven with a special ‘extra weft’ technique. This traditional art uses vegetable dyes to a large extent, with a leaning toward artificial colours in present day creations. Black, yellow, orange, maroon, are the preferred hues. Motif patterns commonly adorning the fabric are bitter gourd, the atasi flower, the kanti-phul or small flower, peacocks and birds, Konark temple, conches. The use of bright coloured panels with extra motifs on a contrasting colour background is a unique and attractive feature.

The Sambalpuri Silk sarees are akin to the Bomkai sarees though they use more of geometrical patterns. Shanka, chakra, or floral pattern motifs may also be seen on the base fabric, with designer colours and patterns chosen to provide the traditionally woven saree, the modern look. Orissa Handloom Silks make use of tribal art hand painting which significantly enhances the appeal of the already splendid-looking saree.

The spectacular azure blue Orissa Handloom Pure silk saree has double ikkat woven elephants, floral design, dancing dolls, temple design adorning the saree body. It has a striking contrast cream colour Ikkat Naksi border either side. The maroon colour designer pallu has ikkat woven lines and floral design interspersed with each other. This exquisite silk creation would suit grand occasions like festivals, weddings and parties.

The light golden brown colour Orissa Handloom pure silk saree has black and maroon ikkat prints on the body with maroon ikkat handloom woven border. The sensational maroon and black pallu with ikkat prints creates a beautiful contrast. This is an exquisite piece for festivals, social functions, weddings, parties, and traditional occasions.

The standard orrisa handloom silk in sari width, is always woven in white and later dyed in different colours. Some of the weaves also have a narrow border edged with gold. In the case of saris with designs, the threads are dyed prior to weaving. For economy, most weavers insist on producing a minimum of three saris of the same design as their looms can accommodate that many at a time.

A weaver normally takes a whole day to set up the threads, which is a very complicated process. It takes about a week to complete three saris in the basic doria.

We watched the deft fingers of a young girl working on a huge loom and marvelled at her skill. She was probably not more than 13 years old but, at work, she was a veteran.

Dyeing of threads is usually done by men. The orders for dyed thread are placed by the weavers themselves or by wholesale dealers who then negotiate with the weavers for the finished saris.