9 Common RTA Cabinets Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Ready-to-assemble (RTA) cabinets can save you money and time. They come flat-packed, ship fast, and look great when installed well.
But many DIY projects go wrong for simple reasons: rushed planning, poor measuring, and skipping small details that matter.
This guide walks you through the nine most common mistakes people make with RTA cabinets—and exactly how to avoid them.
Keep it simple, work step by step, and your kitchen or bath will look like a pro did it.
1) Guessing Measurements Instead of Verifying Them
The mistake: Measuring once, or worse, eyeballing it. Doors hit walls. Drawers slam into the stove handle. A pantry blocks a light switch. The countertop overhang doesn’t line up with the base cabinets.
How to avoid it:
● Measure every wall, ceiling height, and floor-to-ceiling at multiple points. Old homes are rarely square.
● Mark window trim, outlets, vents, and plumbing on your drawing.
● Note appliance specs (width, height, depth) and clearances from the manufacturer.
● Use a simple scaled sketch or a free design tool. Check twice before you order.
Pro tip: Tape out your layout on the floor and walls with painter’s tape. Open a mock “door” and “drawer” to see if anything collides.
2) Ignoring Appliance and Door Clearances
The mistake: The fridge door can’t swing fully. The oven handle hits a drawer. The dishwasher door, when open, blocks you from standing in front of the sink.
How to avoid it:
● Leave at least 1–2 inches of breathing room beside large appliances (more if the manufacturer says so).
● Check door swing direction on fridges and pantries.
● Keep the dishwasher next to the sink and ensure you can stand at the sink with the dishwasher door open.
● Allow 15 inches minimum of landing space on at least one side of cooktops and ovens for safety and comfort.
Quick check: Measure with doors open, not just closed.
3) Skipping Wall and Floor Prep
The mistake: Trying to “fix” uneven walls and floors with cabinet shoving and extra screws. The result is crooked boxes, uneven gaps, and a wavy countertop.
How to avoid it:
● Use a 6–8 ft. level to check walls and floors. Mark high and low spots.
● Shim the base cabinets to create a perfectly level line before you connect them.
● On walls, snap a level ledger line (a horizontal reference) for uppers to sit on during install.
● Locate and mark studs with a reliable stud finder and a small test nail.
Pro tip: If your floor is way off, start the run at the highest point. It’s much easier to shim up than to trim down doors later.
4) Ordering the Wrong Finish or Color
The mistake: Picking a finish online and later discovering it looks different in your room. Lighting changes everything; warm light can turn gray doors purple or green.
How to avoid it:
● Order samples of doors or finish chips before you buy.
● View the sample at different times of day and under your actual light bulbs.
● Hold it next to your floor, backsplash, and countertop to check undertones.
● If possible, place the sample vertically on the wall (like a real door) for a few days.
Pro tip: If you have kids or pets, consider matte or satin finishes that hide fingerprints better than high-gloss.
5) Forgetting Fillers, Panels, and Trim
The mistake: Assuming cabinets will fit wall-to-wall perfectly. They rarely do. Without fillers and panels, you get tight, awkward seams or doors rubbing the wall.
How to avoid it:
● Add fillers (1–3 inches) at corners and wall ends to create space for door swings and scribe to uneven walls.
● Use finished side panels on exposed cabinet ends for a clean look.
● Plan for toe-kicks, crown molding, light rail, and scribes in your order. These small parts make the install look custom.
Pro tip: Keep a few extra filler strips on hand—you can trim them to solve last-minute gaps.
6) Choosing the Cheapest Hardware and Fasteners
The mistake: Saving a few dollars on hinges, slides, and screws. Cheap hardware fails early; drawers feel gritty; soft-close stops working; doors sag.
How to avoid it:
● Choose soft-close, full-extension drawer slides and clip-on hinges from a known brand.
● Use cabinet installation screws (not drywall screws) to attach boxes to studs.
● Buy a small bottle of wood glue for dowels and joints (follow your brand’s instructions; some RTA systems are designed for cam locks only).
● Don’t mix random screws—length and thread type matter.
Pro tip: Keep extra hinges and slides from the same brand for easy repairs down the line.
7) Rushing Assembly Without Squaring the Boxes
The mistake: Assembling quickly, tightening cams, and moving on. The boxes look okay—but they’re not square. Doors won’t align, and drawers rub.
How to avoid it:
● Assemble on a flat surface. Check for a square by measuring diagonals; they should match.
● Don’t fully tighten cams or screws until the box is square.
● Wipe away any excess glue as you go (if your system uses glue).
● Label each cabinet as you build: B24, W3015, Pantry 24x90, etc. Keep hardware in baggies taped to each box.
Pro tip: Dry-fit a few boxes together before mounting to confirm heights and seams.
8) Poor Leveling and Weak Anchoring
The mistake: Mounting first, leveling after. Or anchoring into drywall instead of studs. Cabinets shift, countertops crack, and doors go out of alignment.
How to avoid it:
● Start with a level-based run. Clamp and connect cabinet faces with cabinet screws before anchoring to the wall.
● For uppers, screw a temporary ledger board at your layout height, hang the uppers on it, level, then anchor to studs.
● Pre-drill face frames and use cabinet-to-cabinet screws so fronts stay flush.
● Shim behind boxes where the wall bows. Tighten in stages and recheck the level.
Pro tip: Keep a 1/8-inch reveal where cabinets meet uneven walls. You’ll hide it later with a scribe strip or caulk.
9) Skipping Final Adjustments and Protection
The mistake: Stopping once the boxes are up. Doors look “close enough,” hardware is on, and you move straight to countertop day. Small errors add up and become permanent.
How to avoid it:
● Adjust hinges: up/down, left/right, in/out until gaps are even.
● Set drawer faces so lines match across the whole wall. Tighten from the inside.
● Add bumpers to doors and drawers to soften close and protect finishes.
● Run a clean bead of paintable caulk at small wall gaps. Touch up paint or finish where needed.
● Cover cabinets with clean moving blankets during countertop install and backsplash work.
Pro tip: Take photos of the finished hinge and slide positions. If anyone loosens them later, you can match the original setup fast.
Simple Step-by-Step Plan
Use this quick roadmap to keep your project on track:
1. Plan the layout: Measure the room in several spots. Mark utilities, openings, and obstructions. Confirm appliance specs and door swings.
2. Order the right parts: Include fillers, panels, toe-kicks, crown, light rail, scribes, and enough trim. Order finished samples first.
3. Prep the room: Check for level and plumb. Mark studs. Snap your reference lines for base and uppers.
4. Assemble with care: Work on a flat surface. Square each box. Label every cabinet. Keep the hardware with its box.
5. Install bases: Start at the highest floor point. Shim to level, clamp faces flush, then anchor to studs.
6. Hang uppers: Use a ledger board. Level and secure into studs. Connect boxes before final tightening.
7. Add trim and details: Install fillers, panels, toe-kicks, crown, and light rail. Scribe to walls for a tight look.
8. Adjust, align, protect: Dial in doors and drawers. Add bumpers, caulk tiny gaps, and cover cabinets during countertop and tile work.
9. Final check: Open every door and drawer. Confirm clearances and alignment. Clean up and enjoy your new space.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Be Glad You Had
● 6–8 ft. level, small level, and laser level (optional but helpful)
● Stud finder and painter’s tape
● Shims, clamps, and a ledger board (straight 1x3 or 1x4)
● Cabinet installation screws and cabinet-to-cabinet screws
● Drill/driver, impact driver, and a sharp set of bits