What to do when your laptop battery is fail

On Friday I posted a piece titled The correct way to use your MacBook’s battery that was based on my experience with an Apple Genius and a two-year old hp pavilion dv6500 battery that had failed while covered under AppleCare. The long and short of it was that the technician covered and replaced my battery under warranty because [...]

On Friday I posted a piece titled The correct way to use your apple macbook pro 15 inch battery that was based on my experience with an Apple Genius and a two-year old MacBook battery that had failed while covered under AppleCare.

The long and short of it was that the technician covered and replaced my hp pavilion dv6000 battery under warranty because it had been “used properly” — translation: it had a sufficient amount of charge cycles to indicated that it hadn’t been permanently plugged into AC power.

I thought that I’d clarify some issues that have come up in the comments about that piece:

Apple doesn’t recommend that you perform a “deep discharge” (running the battery all the way down to zero) each time you use it. As Apple notes in its hp hstnn-Db72 battery tips for notebooks a fully discharged battery could fall into a deep discharge state, which renders it incapable of holding any charge. The Apple tech I spoke to told me to run the battery down until the reserve battery warning before plugging it into power again.

While it’s true that the “memory effect” suffered by older hp pavilion dv2000 battery technology is largely gone in lithium cells, the purpose of running a battery down before recharging it is to keep the chemistry active inside the cells. If your MacBook is always plugged in and just topping off, the chemicals in the lower portion of the battery don’t get used as designed and can decay prematurely.

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