Stylepoints: Fashion moments of 2015
The fashion circus somersaulted its way through 2015, its merry-go-round spinning ever faster, its social media feeds ever more elastic, its jaw-dropping acts increasingly ... well, jaw-dropping as the year went on. What stood out amid this year’s silk-draped, star-spangled carnival? Let us count the defining moments and memories.
Gucci achieved total front-row domination.
When Alessandro Michele took the reins at the house the horse-bit loafer built in January, Gucci was widely regarded as having lost its oomph. Jump ahead one season, and seemingly half of the front row was turned out in looks from Michele’s debut collection, from his kangaroo-fur-lined house slipper loafers to his green and burgundy floral suits. One brand hasn’t so thoroughly caught the fashion flock’s imagination, or pocketbook, in years.
Caitlyn Jenner and Taraji P. Henson raised the celebrity style stakes.
With Jenner’s Zac Posen bustiers and her Versace gown, her emergence as a fashion figure and her embrace of old-school glamour spurred a new debate, on style and opinion pages, about what it means to be “feminine.” At the same time, dominating the small screen and the red carpet was Henson, whose breakthrough character, Cookie Lyon of “Empire,” unabashedly embraced hi-bling (think Moschino, Versace and Tom Ford), while the actress portraying her strutted her own brand of understated, streetwise cool.
Models presented designs from Gucci during a fashion show in Milan in September. One brand hasn’t so thoroughly caught the fashion flock’s imagination, or pocketbook, in years, as Alessandro Michele’s debut collection for Gucci.
One of the fastest movers of product turned out to be Princess Charlotte. The latest addition to the British royal family proved she was as much a fashion influencer as her mother and older brother, causing a sellout in smocked floral dresses by Spanish label M&H when her latest pictures appeared. Malia Obama was a close runner-up. Can Saint West be far behind?
Gender nonconformity hit the runway.
The divide between menswear and womenswear is seeming ever more pointless, as labels like Vetements, Telfar and Public School mix boys and girls on the runway and in the wardrobe. Fashion reflects society, after all, and we are in a gender-nonconformist age. Why shouldn’t all consumers be able to dress the part?
An earthquake in French fashion.
Alexander Wang and Balenciaga agreed to part ways after three years, Wang to concentrate on his own brand. Raf Simons and Dior announced they were splitting, and Lanvin fired Alber Elbaz, its designer of 14 years. Expectations are high that another round of fashion dominoes is about to fall.
Generational change hit New York.
The big three that defined and dominated New York fashion for decades (Donna, Ralph and Calvin) are down to one — or maybe even 0.75. Donna Karan joined Calvin Klein in jumping off the hamster wheel, and her namesake main line is no more. That leaves Ralph Lauren as the last tent pole standing, although even he is thinking, “What’s next?” Waiting in the wings is Proenza Schouler.
Fast fashion became a hot mess.
It was an annus horribilis for Gap, Abercrombie & Fitch and J. Crew, with falling sales and what seemed like a disappearing consumer base. The bright spot was Target, which broke the Internet with its Lilly Pulitzer limited edition, as did H&M with its Alexander Wang and Balmain collaborations. Apparently there is no limit to the lengths we will go to grab a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it bargain.
Nudity was the new black (tie).
From the Met Gala to the Grammys, the newsmaking looks on the red carpet looked awfully see-through. Beyoncé, J. Lo, Kim Kardashian and Miley Cyrus duked it out in the barely dressed stakes, suggesting that when it came to statement-making entrances, less was more. Someone get those women some clothes.
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