Goshthalwa - India’s food pairing heritage

As the old adage goes, nothing ventured, nothing gained - and nowhere is this truer than when experimenting in the kitchen. Some of the most creative recipes involve what might initially appear to be the strangest of flavour combinations, yet when paired by innovative chefs the results can prove mouth-watering. Of course, we all feel comfortable when faced with a familiar flavour blend. We know where we are with, say, chocolate and nuts. But what would you think if your sweet, white chocolate was teamed with olives, caviar or even onion? Contemporary chefs like Heston Blumenthal have made millions from playing with tastes and flavours, perfecting the art of food pairing. It is an exciting practice which can infuse dishes with new life, providing unlimited inspiration for chefs and foodies keen to push the boundaries of cuisine as we know it. 

In fact, recent reports have come to the fore in the media claiming that food pairing is the secret behind Indian cuisine’s irresistible flavours. Scientists have investigated the elements that make certain flavours pair well with others and it all comes down to the underlying chemical components of the food. So there is science working behind the scenes to make that vanilla kulfi sprinkled with chilli powder taste so darn delicious, and that melting chocolate blend perfectly with fried onions. Don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it. 

Despite the fact that food pairing and the resulting practices such as molecular gastronomy are a fairly recent study, it might surprise you to find out that India has been playing with food pairings for hundreds of years. The endlessly creative culinary heritage of India stretches back generations and there are a number of recipes that, though once popular, have now been lost to the past. Goshthalwa is one of them. 

First of all, it is worth bearing in mind that halwa is one of the most popular desserts in India. It can be created in all manner of flavours, though the basis of the sweet is usually milk and plenty of sugar or jaggery. Rich in ghee, it is enjoyed throughout the states of the sub-continent with different regions putting their own spin on this decadent dessert. Semolina, carrot, lauki - there are many different ways to make halwaand although the dish might not be suitable for vegans, it certainly suits the diet of the many vegetarians that call India home. Except, that is, for the gosht version, and when you consider the fact that the word ‘gosht’translates as ‘meat’, you might understand why. 

Food pairing makes an epic conquest in this unusual dish that brings sweet and meat together. It is believed to have originated in Delhi but has long since died out as a popular recipe - until a recent food festival, reported on by the Times of India, saw goshthalwa making a comeback. Minced lamb was boiled in milk and slow-cooked with spices such as cardamom, ghee and more creamy milk. Apparently, it went down a treat. 

If the sound of sugary meat does not hold any appeal, perhaps you should satisfy your cravings for creative cuisine at one of London’s best Indian fine dining restaurants instead.