What are the distinctive features of Ikkat sarees?

by Aarushi Reddy studant

A sari is a primary clothing item for women in the Indian sub-continent. It varies from 4.5 metres to 8 metres in length and 60 cm to 1.20 m in breadth. The word translates to a piece of cloth and it originated during the Indus valley civilisation.

A unique dying technique which is used to manufacture sarees is Ikkat. It is a resist dye technique used to pattern textiles. Usually, resist dying involves covering parts of fabric to shield reserved areas from penetration of the dye. The term “ikkat” is used to describe a process before weaving, warp (lengthwise yarn) or weft (crosswise thread). Sometimes, both are tied off with fibre knots that resist absorbing colour and are then dyed.

The origin of this technique is not particularly clear as Asia has several cultural regions where ikkat tradition is popular. Southeast Asia, India and Central Asia all can be possible destinations for Ikkat.

In India, states of Andhra Pradesh and Gujarat are renowned for ikkat pattu sarees. Tamil Nadu was also a centre for the active production of ikkat. The Patola style of Gujarat is the most famous and sophisticated of ikkat textiles. This style requires precision and setting up of warp and weft, as the desired effect is a clear outline of patterns. The Patolas are also used in ceremonial functions to drape the bride and bridegroom.

A different kind of saree which gets its name from the town of Gadwal in Palamooru district of Telangana state is Gadwal sarees. These sarees are the most impressive style from the land of Gultis and are also considered as a mark of high status.

The cotton used in these sarees come from Bangalore, and the gold jari comes from Surat. The colours which are used in the Gadwal sarees are unique and are not found in other styles.

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